How We Finish Cutting Boards with a Full Mineral Oil Bath

An inside look at The Forest Goblin’s “tank method”—why we soak, what we use, and how it makes heirloom‑grade boards.

Summary for the Scroll-Weary

We submerge every board in USP‑grade mineral oil for ~24 hours in a sealed, food‑safe tank, then stand the boards to drip‑dry and hand‑buff. To lock it in, every order gets a final coat of Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil before it leaves the shop. The result: deep, even saturation, beautiful luster, and durable, food‑safe protection.

The Materials We Trust

• Mineral Oil (USP Grade): I use this pharmaceutical/food‑grade (USP/NF) white mineral oil from BVV. It includes documentation (COA, SDS, spec sheet) for full transparency. You can find them listed directly on the product page below.
  → BVV Mineral Oil, USP/NF Grade
  
  
• Food‑Safe Tank & Lid: A dedicated, food‑contact‑safe (NSF Listed), BPA Free container keeps the oil clean and the soak consistent—plus the lid keeps dust out between sessions. This one is from Cambro, a US company that makes top-tier kitchen products, and it is made in the USA!
  → Cambro 18"×26"×15" White Poly Food Storage Box (NSF Listed)
  → Matching Cambro Flat Lid (NSF Listed)
  
  
• Finish Coat: → Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil (NSF Listed) (applied after the soak and dry and before it's sent to you). Brewed in the USA! This is what I recommend you use to refresh the board (more on that care process below).
  
  

Note:  The tank is dedicated to finishing only— no food goes in it. The oil lives in the sealed container between uses to keep it clean. When needed, organic, unbleached cheesecloth is used to remove any wood dust particles that are left in the oil post-soak. This dust comes from the boards post-sanding, as it's hard to wipe all the microscopic particles off).

Why a Full Soak?

A wipe‑on finish sits near the surface. A full mineral bath lets the oil wick deep into the wood fibers, filling micro‑voids and stabilizing the surface. Benefits you can see and feel:

• Even, deep saturation (especially on end grain)
  
  
• Reduced raised grain after first washes
  
  
• Balanced moisture exchange for less impact due to seasonal swings
  
  
• Rich, natural color without varnish or plastic feel

Around here we call the tank the cauldron—because it quietly works its magic while we build the next piece.

Our Step‑by‑Step Process

1. Prep & Clean. Boards are sanded through finish grits until a final pass of 400 Grit (SUPER smooth!) and wiped free of dust. Edges and details are dialed in.
   
   
2. Submerge. Each board is lowered into the tank of USP mineral oil until fully covered.
   
   
3. Soak (~24 Hours). I generally soak for about 24 hours, adjusting by size and thickness so the wood has time to drink its fill.
   
   
4. Stand to Drain. Boards come out to dry on end, letting excess oil drain and the surface equalize.
   
   
5. Buff‑Out. Once the sheen levels, I hand‑buff to a consistent, satin glow.
   
   
6. Final Coat. A hand‑applied layer of Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil before it leaves our shop seals the deal and extends the interval before your first re‑oil at home.
   
   

After‑Care for You (The Owner’s Guide)

Keep your board looking and working its best:

• Wash: Warm water, a little mild soap, quick scrub. Rinse and dry immediately—do not soak or put in the dishwasher. I recommend ECOS Hypoallergenic Dish Soap - Free & Clear to ensure your board (and your hands) are clean but not dried out and stripped of moisture. Plus, it's made in the USA with 100% renewable energy, is Climate Positive, Women Owned, and EPA Safer Choice-certified.
  
  
• Stand to Dry: Let air circulate on all sides (on edge is ideal).
  
  
• Re‑Oil: When the surface looks pale or feels dry, wipe on a light coat of food‑safe mineral oil or a board oil (like Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil). Let it sit 20–30 minutes on edge, then wipe off the excess.
  
  
• Avoid: Prolonged water exposure, humid/unstable storage conditions, harsh detergents, and vegetable/cooking oils (they can go rancid).
  
  

It is advised to re‑oil every few weeks with heavy use, or every few months for light use. It’s quick, simple, and keeps the board happy. The best rule of thumb, though, is to oil as soon as you feel your board needs it. This way, it will keep serving you for decades to come.

Why This Makes Heirlooms

Heirloom quality isn’t a slogan—it’s a thousand small decisions:

• True, food‑safe materials with clear documentation
  
  
• Time in the tank so oil penetrates deeply, not just a quick wipe
  
  
• Clean handling in a sealed container
  
  
• Hand work at every step—sanding, buffing, and final finish

That combination is why Forest Goblin boards arrive with that quietly confident, built‑for‑decades feeling.

Questions?

Curious about custom sizing, species, or end‑grain builds? I’m happy to talk shop. Reach out via the contact page, or come see what’s in the cauldron this week.