Why I Sand to 400 Grit on Every Board

Because the handfeel tells the truth.

TL;DR

Most stop at 220 grit. I go to 400. That extra sweep knocks down the micro‑scratches and fiber fuzz you still feel at 220, so the board arrives with that quiet, seasoned heirloom touch—right from the first hold. Since I finish with a full mineral‑oil bath and a final Walrus Oil coat, I don’t sacrifice penetration by sanding finer; the tank handles the soak, and your hands get the glass‑smooth reward.

What Changes Between 220 and 400?

Think of sanding scratches as tiny valleys. At 220, the valleys are shallow to the eye but still coarse to the fingertips. Jumping to 400 refines those valleys until they’re barely there, so you feel continuous wood, not lines.

Practical differences you’ll notice:

• Handfeel: The board feels broken‑in—no grit, no tickle, no snaggy spots on dish towels.
• Raised grain (after first wash): Less “fuzz back” because there’s less torn fiber left to swell.
• Clarity: Figure and chatoyance read cleaner when micro‑scratches aren’t diffusing light.
  
  

“But Doesn’t 400 Reduce Oil Absorption?”

With a quick wipe‑on finish, yes—ultra‑fine sanding can slow penetration. My process is different:

• I submerge every board in USP mineral oil for ~24 hours (size‑dependent), then stand to drain and hand‑buff.
• I finish with Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil to lock it in.

That full soak overcomes the typical tradeoff, so I can prioritize feel without starving the wood.

If you’re applying a film finish (like varnish/poly), 400 can be fine, but you’ll often sand between coats per the product’s directions. For my food‑safe oil system, 400 before the bath is the sweet spot.

My Grit Progression

A smooth board is mostly about discipline—don’t jump grits too much and keep the surface clean. I use these grits with a 5" Variable Speed Random Orbital Sander, with dust extraction hooked up to the sander and net-style sanding discs for better dust extraction (and longer life).

1. 80/100 — Flatten and remove machining marks (as needed; only as coarse as necessary to avoid removing too much material).
2. 120 → 180 — Establish an even scratch pattern.
3. 220 — Baseline smooth.
4. 320 — Transitional refine (optional, use on some species, on end grain or when the jump 220 to 400 is a little big. for edge grain, no real need).
5. 400 — Final surface. Light pressure, slow passes.

Be sure to clean your sanding discs when they become caked - it will reduce performance and also give inconsistent results. When the discs are cooked, don't try to get more out of them than they can give.

The First‑Hold Test

Two quick, unscientific shop tests I swear by:

• Eyes‑Closed Pass: Close your eyes and sweep your fingertips across the board. At 400, your fingers stop reporting “texture” and start reporting “shape.”
• Towel Drag: A dry cotton towel should glide—no catches on end grain or edges.

If it doesn’t pass those, it isn’t done.

Care & Longevity Benefits

Sanding to 400 doesn’t just feel fancy—it stays nice longer:

• Less post‑wash roughness → fewer early touch‑ups.
• Easier cleaning → food residue doesn’t cling to micro‑tooth.
• Finish that wears evenly → touch‑ups look seamless.

Your maintenance stays simple: wash, dry on edge, re‑oil when the sheen dulls.

Shop Notes (For the Curious)

• Fresh discs cut cooler, cleaner, and more consistently. If a disc has lost its cutting compound and grit, it’s a coaster—retire it.
• A soft interface pad helps at high grits on subtle curves; a firm pad can help keep panels flat. I really enjoy using an interface pad and almost always do.
• Raking light is ruthless and honest—use it.
  

Why It Fits the Forest Goblin Way

Heirloom isn’t a logo, it’s a standard. The extra minutes to reach 400 are quiet minutes—where the board crosses from “made” to meant. That’s the feeling I want you to notice the first time you pick it up.

Questions?

Curious about custom sizing, species, or end‑grain builds? I’m happy to talk shop. Reach out via the contact page, or come see what’s in the cauldron this week.