How I Finish Cutting Boards with a Full Mineral Oil Bath (& Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil)

An inside look at The Forest Goblin’s cutting board finishing protocol.

I submerge boards in USP/NF grade mineral oil in a food‑safe container, then stand the boards to dry and hand‑buff. Boards sit in the container for a different amount of time depending on size, thickness, and style. To top it off, every board gets a generous final coat of Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil - NSF Certified Food Contact Safe before it leaves the shop. The result is a deep, even saturation, with beautiful luster.

The Materials I Use

• Mineral Oil (USP/NF Grade): I use this pharmaceutical/food‑grade (USP/NF) white mineral oil from BVV. It includes documentation (COA, SDS, spec sheet) for full transparency. You can find them listed directly on the product page below.
  → BVV Mineral Oil, USP/NF Grade
  
  
• Food‑Safe Tank & Lid: A dedicated, food‑contact‑safe (NSF Listed), BPA Free container keeps the oil clean and the soak consistent—plus the lid keeps dust out between sessions. This one is from Cambro, a US company that makes top-tier kitchen products, and it is made in the USA!
  → Cambro 18"×26"×15" White Poly Food Storage Box (NSF Listed)
  → Matching Cambro Flat Lid (NSF Listed)
  
  
• Wood Glue: Titebond III Ultimate - waterproof (passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance) and is US FDA Approved for Indirect Food Contact, making it ideal for use in cutting boards. In my opinion, this is the premier wood glue for use in cutting boards. This is what is used to glue the wood together in the cutting boards.
  
  
• Finish Coat: → Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil (NSF Certified Food Contact Safe) (generously applied and buffed by hand). Brewed in the USA! This is also what I recommend you use to refresh/re-oil your cutting board.
  
  

Note:  The container is dedicated to finishing only— no food goes in it. The oil lives in the sealed container between uses to keep it clean. When needed, organic, unbleached cheesecloth is used to remove any wood dust particles that are left in the oil post-soak.

Why a Full Bath?

A full mineral bath allows a better opportunity for the wood to fully and evenly saturate with mineral oil, which is foundational to the integrity and durability of the board as well as quality of finish. Simply wiping or pouring on mineral oil can't do what a soak in a tank of mineral oil can for finishing cutting boards. In my opinion, this step is crucial and makes a difference.

The Step‑by‑Step Finishing Process

1. Prep & Clean. Boards are sanded through grits until a final pass of 400 Grit (SUPER smooth!) and then vacuumed free of dust. The board is also grain raised in the sanding process, making for a buttery smooth finished surface and reduced grain raise when washing at home. Edges are dialed in.
   
   
2. Submerge. Each board is lowered into the tank of USP/NF mineral oil until fully submerged.
   
   
3. Soak. I generally soak for about 2-12 hours, adjusting by size and thickness so the wood has time to drink its fill. I flip the boards in the container throughout the process to ensure even and adequate absorption.
   
   
4. Stand to Drain. Boards come out to dry on edge, letting excess oil weep out.
   
   
5. Buff‑Out. I wipe off the residual mineral oil and then hand‑buff to a consistent, satin glow.
   
   
6. Final Coat. A generous hand-buffed layer of Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil seals the deal and gives the board a beautiful warmth, luster, and depth.
   
   

Questions?

If you have any questions, many or few, or want to reach out about a piece, you can email john@theforestgoblin.com, and I'll be in touch with you shortly. In the meantime, take care!